{"id":5753,"date":"2026-08-21T21:39:58","date_gmt":"2026-08-21T21:39:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/uspropertymoves.com\/?p=5753"},"modified":"2026-08-21T21:39:58","modified_gmt":"2026-08-21T21:39:58","slug":"the-fashion-of-the-shards-halston-claude-montana-and-we-all-bow-down-to-armani","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/uspropertymoves.com\/?p=5753","title":{"rendered":"The Fashion of \u2018The Shards\u2019: Halston, Claude Montana and \u201cWe All Bow Down to Armani\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\n[This story contains spoilers for episode five of\u00a0The Shards<\/em>.]<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n\tWith his TV shows, Ryan Murphy shows can be counted on for two things: stirring bottomless pop-culture discourse and envisioning a distinct, period-appropriate aesthetic. This is particularly true of costumes from the Hitchcockian vibe of 2020\u2019s Ratched<\/em> to the chic \u201990s minimalism embodied by Carolyn Bessette Kennedy in this year\u2019s Love Story<\/em>. So when The Shards <\/em>was announced as the latest FX series to join the Murphy oeuvre, it was a sure bet early-\u201880s L.A. style would take center stage.<\/p>\n

Read more Quality Control Co-Founder Pierre \u201cP\u201d Thomas Hospitalized Following Heart Attack<\/a><\/p>\n

\n\tIt doesn\u2019t hurt that author Bret Easton Ellis also liberally namechecked fashion throughout the 2023 novel the series is based on. With both men serving as executive producers on the series, The Shards<\/em> is required viewing for fashion students seeking to learn about the decade\u2019s silhouettes and details, from hefty shoulder pads to the New Romantics style popularized by Adam Ant and Culture Club music videos.<\/p>\n

\n\tEpisode five of The Shards<\/em>, \u201cMurder on the Dance Floor,\u201d gives us a bit of everything style-wise, also because most of the hour takes place at the much-anticipated filming of Dance-Off!<\/em> This American Bandstand<\/em> clone pits three key characters \u2014 Kaia Gerber\u2019s Susan, Hayes Warner\u2019s Debbie, and Bella Valdes\u2019 Cha Cha \u2014 against each other for the coveted title of \u201cGroover of the Week.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n\tAhead of the episode\u2019s airing, THR<\/em> spoke with the show\u2019s costume designers Lou Eyrich and Joshua Marsh. Eyrich has worked with Murphy for almost three decades as both a costume designer and a producer on shows including Ratched<\/em> and Love Story<\/em>, as well as Nip\/Tuck<\/em>, Glee,<\/em> and American Horror Story<\/em>, affording her unique insight into Murphy\u2019s creative process.<\/p>\n

\nThere\u2019s a shot in episode five that sets the style tone perfectly, of the four key characters arriving at the Dance Off!<\/em> studio, rounding the corner and walking between soundstages, and each of them looks pretty flawless. Were you on set for this shot?<\/strong><\/p>\n

\nLOU EYRICH<\/strong> Definitely, also because Ryan was directing that episode. He\u2019s so visual, so after a rehearsal he might come in and say, \u201cLet\u2019s change this\u201d or \u201cDo you have a different jacket?\u201d His notes also might ask for a character\u2019s hair to be more curly, or that a filter needs to be changed.<\/p>\n

\nJOSHUA MARSH<\/strong> Iconic looks come out of those moments with Ryan. Once we\u2019ve met to discuss, an actor might run to the hair trailer, we run to our office and gather options, then we all reconvene in 20 minutes. They call rolling, and we all get to catch our breath and smile.<\/p>\n

\nLet\u2019s go back to before filming started \u2014 when you first received the scripts, what can you tell me about the early conversations and the inspirations for what you would be creating?<\/strong><\/p>\n

\nMARSH<\/strong> Bret Easton Ellis wrote an incredible novel that is chock-a-block full of details. In those 700 pages, I think there are hundreds and hundreds of references to clothes, cars, music, etc. So we had a document to use as a starting place, and from there it was about delving into the research and trying to get our minds in that world.<\/p>\n

\nEYRICH<\/strong> Ryan was also very specific about the hair and makeup for each person, which then directly affected the direction we were going in for their costumes.<\/p>\n

\nIt wasn\u2019t so much a look as it was a music cue that made me immediately think of American Gigolo<\/em> \u2014 with Richard Gere, whose son Homer stars in the show \u2014 while watching episode five.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\nMARSH<\/strong> A few American Gigolo <\/em>references came into play. The color palette of that film is very specific and rich, so it was definitely a source of inspiration. There\u2019s a particular moment in episode four that\u2019s a little homage to American Gigolo<\/em>, too.<\/p>\n

\nEYRICH<\/strong> A big part of it also was because [Giorgio] Armani designed the costumes for that movie, and it\u2019s been referenced by so many over the years, because it was groundbreaking costume design. Josh mentioned the color palette, but also just that quiet luxury, the really soft silks. Ryan had referenced loving that tone and to study how Armani did that. So yes, we all bow down to Armani.<\/p>\n

\nHow big a role did music play while you were working on inspirations?<\/strong><\/p>\n

\nEYRICH<\/strong> That\u2019s another shoutout to Bret Easton Ellis, because he listed all the songs in the novel. So Josh made a playlist, and we played it over and over while we were working, and it definitely had an influence on the clothing. You remember the first time you saw Adam Ant or Boy George, when everybody started wearing porkpie hats or wearing eyeliner. That absolutely influenced the fashion of our world.<\/p>\n

\nIt\u2019s not a small cast, and the core characters have such unique personalities, so how did you address the disparate looks of, say, Debbie vs. Susan, or Debbie\u2019s father, Wes Bentley\u2019s Terry, vs. Jordan Roth\u2019s Steven?<\/strong><\/p>\n

\nMARSH<\/strong> When we thought about Susan, she feels really drawn from Southern California iconography. You also feel like you really want to know her, so for her we leaned into Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and the iconic Brooke Shields ad from that era. So in some scenes it was about denim, great silk blouses, ala Lauren Hutton in American Gigolo<\/em>, and then elevating everything a bit.<\/p>\n

\n\tDebbie is kind of that other extreme, with the dawn of MTV as a big inspiration. This is a girl with tons of money and access, and she\u2019s going out, going to music clubs. So with her we wanted to push that idea of rocker glam, late \u201870s, early \u201880s, with a splash of New Wave. For the guys, we had a lot of fun differentiating them: Brett [played by Igby Rigney] and Thom [Graham Campbell] are both preppy, but Brett feels very classic and California and West Coast, while Thom is more East Coast Ivy League style, so we pushed to get a little more color in there and punch his character up a bit.<\/p>\n

\nAmid that Dance-Off!<\/em> scene, with so many dancers on the stage, how important was it that both Debbie and Susan stand out from the rest of the cast? It\u2019s notable that both their partners, Brett and [Homer Gere\u2019s] Robert, wear dark looks in those scenes, while Debbie is in this electric blue and Susan is in an apricot silk jumpsuit that\u2019s very reminiscent of Halston.<\/strong>\n<\/p>\n

\nMARSH<\/strong> It was partially about making sure the ladies got to shine, particularly Debbie, because all she wants is for anyone outside her family to acknowledge her worth. But we also wanted Brett and Robert to feel a bit like they\u2019re transitioning, so Robert\u2019s in that great \u201880s New Wave silk shirt in navy, with his signature leather pants and a red belt, while Brett is also in more of an \u201880s fit than he usually wears. He\u2019s been wearing super taut things, but this shirt\u2019s a little looser, a little silky, and it\u2019s unbuttoned a little low. He\u2019s stepping into adulthood at \u201cDance-Off!\u201d and he\u2019s also wanting to be more attentive to Debbie, so we wanted to communicate that.<\/p>\n

\nThere\u2019s a great moment early in the episode, when Steven has stepped in to style Debbie\u2019s look for Dance-Off! and he mentions that Claude Montana would be perfect for her. You can\u2019t get more 1980s than that reference.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Read more Michelle Pfeiffer Reveals Career Plans After Saying She \u201cNever\u201d Wanted to \u201cStar in Another Movie\u201d<\/a><\/p>\n

\nEYRICH<\/strong> And [Thierry] Mugler, who also was an inspiration.<\/p>\n

\nMARSH<\/strong> Mugler, Claude Montana specifically, but also [Azzedine] Ala\u00efa, Valentino. We looked at their collections from that period a few times, but Claude Montana was a really exciting one because he also was namechecked in the script. When the kids arrive at the Dance-Off!<\/em> studio, Terry is wearing a fabulous white leather Claude Montana suit, and [Bentley] wears some other Claude Montana pieces throughout the series as well.<\/p>\n

\nEYRICH<\/strong> The whole look for Terry, per Ryan, was that big-shouldered, snatched-waist look, and that\u2019s Claude Montana.<\/p>\n

\nWe have to talk about Jordan Roth, because we know how much he loves fashion. What was it like working with him to put together such a specific aesthetic?<\/strong><\/p>\n

\nMARSH<\/strong> Before I got to meet the incredible Jordan Roth, I had only known him from being a theater kid all my life. And we were a little intimidated, because he is so entrenched in fashion and has so much access to fashion. Our first meeting was a Zoom call, and Jordan had pulled stills from 10 or 12 fashion shows from between 1979 and 1982, just as a starting point for discussion. We wanted to understand from Jordan how he saw the character, and one of the things we all came together with was that it should feel like there should be a darkness and an elegance about his style. Then in an early meeting, Ryan used the term \u201csinister glamour,\u201d and that became the defining piece of information.<\/p>\n

\n\tIn our first fitting, Jordan walked in with two giant suitcases \u2014 you know, \u201cI brought a few things from home.\u201d But the things he\u2019s collected and picked up in his travels are just incredible: a beautiful vintage leather Alaia jacket, for example, or pieces by Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent, and that was really exciting. Our first two fittings were about playing and trying everything, and Jordan always wanted to push it further. What we ended up creating was this really cool New Wave, iconic gallerist look \u2014 but someone who could also take a life. \u00a0<\/p>\n

\nSo it\u2019s time to talk about Cha Cha \u2014 who from the beginning of the episode, admittedly, I was pretty sure wasn\u2019t going to make it out alive. She\u2019s just so horrible from the first moment we see her, which also makes her red jumpsuit pretty perfect.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\nMARSH<\/strong> (Laughs.<\/em>)Cha Cha\u2019s look is inspired by that idea of the \u201880s does the \u201850s, you know? This is a young woman who loved Grease<\/em> and loved that retro-\u201850s look. You see that in a lot of the shapes she wears, so that was an initial starting point for us, as well as the Latina music artists of that era. I will say, when I watch the episode, mainly I think about the actress who plays her, Bella Valdes, who is an absolute delight.<\/p>\n

\nEYRICH<\/strong> We also watched a lot of Soul Train<\/em> when planning for this episode. You can really go down a rabbit hole watching those, because the girls are all wearing these great jumpsuits. That was really fun.<\/p>\n

\nBecause Cha Cha dances so much more provocatively than the other dancers on the show, how did that play into the design of her jumpsuit?<\/strong><\/p>\n

\nMARSH<\/strong> Bella is a trained dancer, and she was also doing all those moves in the fittings. We\u2019d have her try on the look, and we\u2019d say, \u201cCan you do all your stuff?\u201d So Bella would do a high kick into a split, so we had to make sure there was some give there. We also had multiples of that red jumpsuit, because it would get a bit worn out as she moved in it throughout the day, so we could swap in a new one.<\/p>\n

\nEYRICH<\/strong> Josh picked a great dance shoe for Bella to wear, and then with the other members of the main cast, we were really excited about these cute shoes we\u2019d picked out for them. Then they spent time in rehearsal with the choreographer, and they came back and said, \u201cWe can\u2019t wear those shoes.\u201d The outfits already had been designed around them, so we had to go in search of cute dance shoes.<\/p>\n

\nHow did you source other pieces vs. custom pieces made for the episode?<\/strong><\/p>\n

\nEYRICH<\/strong> The blouse Susan wears in the Hamburger Hamlet scene came from a vintage store, Another Man\u2019s Treasure in Pasadena, and then we were lucky enough to find two more. So all of a sudden there was a dream scenario of having not only a perfect piece for Susan to wear, but photo doubles as well. Evan Rachel Wood [as Liz, Debbie\u2019s mother] also wears a great vintage robe by Krizia in this episode.<\/p>\n

\nMARSH<\/strong> I believe for the Dance-Off!<\/em> scene, all of our kids were in head-to-toe custom.<\/p>\n

\nEYRICH<\/strong> We were lucky to have an incredible tailor team, because they handmade almost all of it. That\u2019s also true of the brown tuxedo that Anthony Ramos wore; I think they made that in two days. We also have to give a shoutout to the background dressing team, who had to singlehandedly shop and fit all those background dancers \u2014 I think there were 60 altogether \u2014 and they really nailed it.<\/p>\n

\nHow can we look forward to the style now that we\u2019re past the midway point of the season?<\/strong><\/p>\n

\nMARSH<\/strong> You\u2019ll see some really delightful moments in episodes six and seven; they may be my favorite moments in the series. And there will be some delights in the finale.<\/p>\n

\nEYRICH<\/strong> As you watch, you\u2019ll start to see the unraveling of everybody, both from what\u2019s happening around them and what\u2019s happening in their friendships, and you\u2019ll see that in their costumes as well.<\/p>\n

\nLou, for you this also was quite a balancing act.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\nEYRICH<\/strong> You have to remember, we also were wrapping up [Monster: The Lizzie Borden Story<\/em>], which was set in the 1800s. We were starting American Horror Story: 13<\/em>, which was an amalgamation of all the seasons. We were starting The Shards<\/em>. And then we also were starting the second season of All\u2019s Fair<\/em>, which is highly contemporary. And Ryan\u2019s got that all in his head, but that\u2019s part of the beauty of what he does. He\u2019ll tell you something, and you can tell he\u2019s been up all night, but then he\u2019ll come in the next day and say, \u201cYou know, I\u2019m actually thinking it should be this.\u201d You get a bit of whiplash, but it\u2019s always spot-on and always amazing.<\/p>\n

\nMARSH<\/strong> We work so hard, but we are not going to sit here and say it was a grind. We genuinely pour ourselves into it, but we had a great time. We had a blast. We would be in those fittings for three or four hours, but there\u2019s a lot of good work in there, so it\u2019s a joy to us, a joy for the cast, and it\u2019s a joy to see onscreen.<\/p>\n

Read more \u2018Task\u2019 Star Tom Pelphrey on Finding Himself in His Devoted Dad Role \u2014 and Nearly Playing Professor X<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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